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Winemaker Notes
The 1989 Domaine Guy Robin Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is a "spectacularly rich" expression from one of Chablis’ most historic vintages, benefiting from the estate's significant holdings of original old vines planted in the 1950s and 1960s. Produced by Guy Robin, who famously refused to replant with high-yielding clones, this wine is noted for its extraordinary aromatic complexity, featuring a mixture of exotic fruits and a "wild" minerality that develops into honey, roasted nuts, and fresh butter with age. On the palate, the 1989 vintage exhibits a rounded, lush texture typical of the warm growing season, yet it retains a firm, "biting acidity" and a saline mineral core derived from the thin, chalky Kimmeridgian soils.
About Winery
Domaine Guy Robin, a four-generation family estate in Chablis, France, is renowned for its old-vine Chardonnay, particularly within the Grand Cru Blanchot vineyard. Established by Guy Robin in the 1950s/60s, the estate resisted replanting with modern clones, preserving 50–80-year-old vines that provide deep, traditional, and complex flavours, now managed by his daughter, Marie-Ange.
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About Winery
Domaine Matrot is one of Burgundy’s historic family estates, rooted in Meursault since 1835, and today run by sisters Adèle and Elsa Matrot. The domaine began with Joseph Matrot and his wife Marguerite Amoignon, who settled in Meursault in 1914 and expanded the vineyards. Successive generations modernized and grew the estate, with Pierre Matrot taking over in 1937 and his son Thierry leading vinification from 1983. Since 2000, the domaine has embraced organic practices, and under Adèle and Elsa, it continues to produce terroir-driven wines that reflect the purity and elegance of the Côte de Beaune.
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About Winery
Domaine Coche-Dury, based in Meursault, Burgundy, is one of the most revered producers of white Burgundy. The estate was founded in the 1920s by Léon Coche, who purchased vineyard plots and initially sold grapes to négociants while bottling a small amount himself. In 1964, his son Georges Coche took over his share of the vineyards, expanding holdings and strengthening the domaine. Georges’s son Jean-François Coche assumed control in 1973, and with his wife (whose surname, Dury, was added to the domaine’s name), he transformed Coche-Dury into a cult estate. Known for meticulous vineyard work, low yields, and precise winemaking, Jean-François elevated the domaine’s reputation to global acclaim, especially for its Chardonnay from Meursault, Corton-Charlemagne, and other Côte de Beaune sites. In 1999, the domaine suffered a notable setback when a helicopter crash damaged part of its Corton-Charlemagne vines, but it continued to thrive. Today, Jean-François’s son Raphaël Coche has joined the estate, ensuring continuity of its legendary style and status as one of Burgundy’s most sought-after producers.
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Winemaker Notes
a mature profile featuring developed aromas of toast, mushroom, and honey, alongside classic Chablis notes of lemon, grapefruit, and oyster shell. On the palate, it maintains the traditional Raveneau texture—described as silky yet with a "fine steely core"—and concludes with a lingering finish of citrus and butter.
About Winery
Domaine Raveneau, established in 1948 by François Raveneau in Chablis, France, is a premier, family-run producer renowned for its exceptional Grand and Premier Cru Chardonnay. By marrying Andrée Dauvissat and acquiring vineyards during a post-war downturn, François built a 10-hectare estate that emphasizes traditional, low-yield, and barrel-aged methods.
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About Winery
Domaine des Comtes Lafon, based in Meursault in Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune, was established in the late 19th century when Jules Lafon, a lawyer, married Marie Boch in 1894 and inherited prime vineyard parcels in Meursault and Volnay, later adding a piece of the legendary Montrachet in 1919. Initially, much of the vineyard work was handled by sharecroppers, but in 1956 René Lafon began reclaiming the vines, and by 1961 the domaine started bottling its own wines. Since 1985, René’s son Dominique Lafon has led the estate, introducing biodynamic viticulture and elevating it to one of Burgundy’s most acclaimed producers, renowned for its expressive, terroir-driven whites and reds from prestigious appellations like Meursault Charmes, Perrières, and Montrachet.
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About Winery
Château de Puligny-Montrachet, located in the Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, has its origins in the 12th century, when Cistercian monks first planted vines near Blagny, just north of Puligny. Over centuries, the village of Puligny-Montrachet became one of the most prestigious centers for white wine, producing some of the world’s finest Chardonnays. The château itself was established later as a focal point for viticulture in the area, with holdings across several of Burgundy’s most celebrated climats. Puligny-Montrachet is unique in that it shares two of the most famous Grand Cru vineyards—Le Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet—with neighboring Chassagne-Montrachet, while also encompassing Chevalier-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet. Today, Château de Puligny-Montrachet is recognized for its commitment to terroir-driven winemaking, producing wines that emphasize precision, minerality, and longevity, and it remains a cornerstone of Burgundy’s global reputation for exceptional white wines.
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Winemaker Notes
The wine opens with radiant aromas of white flowers, citrus, apple, and wet stone, framed by a subtle "dollop of oak spice". On the palate, it is described by Stephen Tanzer as wonderfully sweet and concentrated yet vibrant and "light on its feet," combining intense minerality with marvelous detail and a firm acid spine.
About Winery
Domaine Henri Boillot, based in Meursault, is a prestigious, family-run Burgundy estate with roots dating back to 1885. Known for elite Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, the domaine was re-established in 2005 by Henri Boillot after separating from his brother, focusing on high-end, precise wines. Today, Henri and his son Guillaume manage the estate, with 2011 acquisitions strengthening their holdings in Bâtard-Montrachet.
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Winemaker Notes
The 2002 Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis 1er Cru "Montmains" is a classic expression of its Kimmeridgian terroir, characterized by what winemaker Jean-Marc Brocard describes as a philosophy of "Precision, Strength, and Freshness". Produced from 30-year-old vines, this 100% Chardonnay undergoes alcoholic fermentation with indigenous yeasts followed by full malolactic fermentation, then ages for 14 months in a combination of large oak casks (70%) and stainless steel tanks (30%).
About Winery
Established in 1985 in Pommard by Jean-Marc Boillot, this top-tier Burgundy domaine grew from inherited vineyards from the famed Sauzet and Boillot families. After leaving a winemaker role at Olivier Leflaive, Boillot developed a reputation for rich, high-quality white and red wines. Today, it is run by his children.
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Winemaker Notes
The wine presents a golden color with bright reflections and an intense aromatic profile featuring grilled bread, almond, honey, and exotic wood. On the palate, the structure is striking and voluminous, even possessing a "touch of tannin" that adds an extra dimension of complexity to its richness. The finish is described as a voluptuous finale that is seemingly endless, characterized by precious notes of preserved and ripe fruit.
About Winery
Founded in 1880 in Beaune by 22-year-old Joseph Drouhin, this prestigious Burgundy house began as a négociant before evolving into a major producer with extensive vineyard holdings. Known for a focus on terroir and organic/biodynamic farming, the family-run winery expanded significantly under Maurice and Robert Drouhin, including establishing a 50-hectare estate in Oregon in 1987.
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Winemaker Notes
The 2003 Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (Domaine des Héritiers) is a powerful and opulent expression of the vintage, noted for its "massive" concentration that occasionally draws comparisons to the structure of a red wine. According to winemaker Jacques Lardière, the 2003 was vinified using a higher percentage of new oak—up to 100% for the first several months—to intentionally oxidize unstable material early on, a technique used to maintain stability and avoid overly exotic flavors in the searing heat of that year.
About Winery
Founded in 1859 by Louis Henry Denis Jadot, Maison Louis Jadot is a premier Burgundy producer with roots dating back to 1794. The house focuses on expressing terroir, holding over 60 hectares of vines. Their Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru "Les Baudes" is a structured, long-aging Pinot Noir sourced from vines near Morey-Saint-Denis.
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About Winery
Philippe Colin, son of Marc Colin, entered the family domaine in 1988 after studying viticulture and oenology in Beaune. In 2004, following his parents’ retirement, Philippe and his brother Bruno divided the family’s holdings, with Philippe establishing Domaine Philippe Colin in Chassagne-Montrachet. Starting with about 5 hectares of vineyards, Philippe expanded his range to include parcels in Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Saint-Aubin, Maranges, and Santenay, producing both red and white wines across 11 appellations. Known for his modern yet terroir-focused style, Philippe emphasizes subtlety, precision, and respect for nature in his winemaking. In recent years, his son Simon Colin has taken on greater responsibility, managing 9 hectares of vines and continuing the family tradition. The domaine now produces around 35,000 bottles annually, with a reputation for elegant, mineral-driven Chardonnays and balanced Pinot Noirs that reflect the diversity of the Côte de Beaune terroirs.
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About Winery
Domaine des Comtes Lafon, based in Meursault in Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune, was established in the late 19th century when Jules Lafon, a lawyer, married Marie Boch in 1894 and inherited prime vineyard parcels in Meursault and Volnay, later adding a piece of the legendary Montrachet in 1919. Initially, much of the vineyard work was handled by sharecroppers, but in 1956 René Lafon began reclaiming the vines, and by 1961 the domaine started bottling its own wines. Since 1985, René’s son Dominique Lafon has led the estate, introducing biodynamic viticulture and elevating it to one of Burgundy’s most acclaimed producers, renowned for its expressive, terroir-driven whites and reds from prestigious appellations like Meursault Charmes, Perrières, and Montrachet.
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About Winery
Established in 1879 by Pierre Arbinet, Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine has grown steadily over more than a century, passing through successive generations of the family. The estate expanded significantly under Bernard Dubreuil, and in 1991 his daughter Christine Gruère-Dubreuil took over, representing the fifth generation of winemakers. Over time, the domaine has developed into a 50-acre estate producing wines from 20 appellations, ranging from regional Bourgogne to Premier and Grand Crus such as Corton-Charlemagne, Pernand-Vergelesses, Savigny-lès-Beaune, and Volnay. Known for balancing tradition with modernity, the domaine emphasizes authenticity, terroir expression, and careful craftsmanship. In 2019, Christine’s daughter Clémentine joined, marking the arrival of the sixth generation, ensuring continuity of the family’s vision. Today, Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine is celebrated for producing elegant, terroir-driven wines that reflect the richness of the Côte de Beaune.
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Winemaker Notes
The wine opens with pure aromas of peach, apricot, almond, and hazelnut, presenting a profile that is suave, subtle, and rich. While described as less immediately "generous" in its youth than other parcels like Les Referts, it is noted for having significantly more tension and grip, leading to a finish that is long, pure, and fairly dry.
About Winery
Established in 1985 in Pommard by Jean-Marc Boillot, this top-tier Burgundy domaine grew from inherited vineyards from the famed Sauzet and Boillot families. After leaving a winemaker role at Olivier Leflaive, Boillot developed a reputation for rich, high-quality white and red wines. Today, it is run by his children.
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Winemaker Notes
"compact, serious, and built-to-age finale". The wine opens with a "ripe and vaguely exotic nose" of white and yellow peach, spice, and delicate acacia blossom, accented by prominent petrol aromas. On the palate, it exhibits moderately dense flavors with "focused power" and an underlying sense of tension, reflecting the superb quality of the 2005 vintage.
About Winery
Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard, based in Chassagne-Montrachet, is a premier Burgundian producer renowned for elegant white wines. Established by Jean-Noël Gagnard after inheriting vines in 1960, the estate has been run by his daughter, Caroline L'Estimé, since 1989. She transitioned the 12.5-hectare domaine to certified organic and biodynamic farming by 2014, focusing on low-intervention, terroir-driven Chardonnay.
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Winemaker Notes
he aromatic profile features subdued but pure notes of stone fruits, grilled nuts, honey, and minerals, complemented by brighter hints of orange and spice. On the palate, the wine is described as fat, rich, and sweet with a d
About Winery
Established in 1985 in Pommard by Jean-Marc Boillot, this top-tier Burgundy domaine grew from inherited vineyards from the famed Sauzet and Boillot families. After leaving a winemaker role at Olivier Leflaive, Boillot developed a reputation for rich, high-quality white and red wines. Today, it is run by his children.
Winemaker Notes
From a Sonoma Coast vineyard, the 2005 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard reveals extremely uplifted aromatics displaying hints of wet stones, white currants, flowers, peaches, and subtle tropical fruits. Full-bodied, intense, and tightly-knit, it should drink well for 7-8 years. Kistler Vineyards, undeniably one of the world's finest winemaking estates, is run with passionate dedication to detail and quality by Steve Kistler and Mark Bixler. It is wines like these that keep an old critic like me inspired and energized.
About Winery
Kistler Vineyards is a small winery in the Russian River Valley specializing in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Founded in 1978 on the notion that compelling wines of site can and should be made in California. Kistler has been working with their own heritage selection of Chardonnay since the mid-1980s and is known the world over as a single clone Chardonnay house. They plant one heritage selection of Chardonnay across fifteen vineyards, giving rise to eleven vineyard designate Chardonnays. Similarly, Kistler produces four Pinot Noirs; each of these wines is crafted from the two small-clustered, low-yielding clones that were imported from a Grand Cru vineyard in Burgundy, which they began propagating over 20 years ago. Geoff Labitzke, MW, is the National Director of Sales for Kistler Vineyards and will be our guide as we explore five distinct bottlings of Kistler’s highly sought-after wines.
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About Winery
Bouchard Père et Fils, one of Burgundy’s oldest and most prestigious wine houses, was founded in 1731 in Beaune by Michel Bouchard, originally a cloth merchant who soon turned to wine trading. His son Joseph began acquiring vineyards in 1746, and by 1785 the firm adopted the name “Bouchard Père et Fils.” Over the centuries, the domaine expanded to become one of Burgundy’s largest landholders, now owning about 130 hectares, including 12 hectares of Grand Cru and 74 hectares of Premier Cru. In 1820, the family purchased the historic Château de Beaune, whose underground cellars still serve as an exceptional aging site. After remaining in family hands for over 250 years, the estate was sold in 1995 to Joseph Henriot, who modernized operations, and in 2022 it became part of Artémis Domaines, the wine group of François Pinault. Today, Bouchard Père et Fils continues to balance tradition and innovation, producing highly regarded wines that showcase Burgundy’s finest terroirs.
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About Winery
The Moreau family’s winemaking tradition in Chablis dates back to 1814, when Jean-Joseph Moreau, originally a barrel maker in Montbard, founded the wine merchant company J. Moreau et Fils. Over generations, the family acquired prestigious parcels, including the Clos des Hospices in Les Clos (purchased in 1904), which has always been vinified separately. In the 1970s, Christian Moreau returned to Chablis after living in Canada, joining his father Guy in the family business. The merchant side of J. Moreau et Fils was eventually sold to the Canadian group Hiram Walker in 1985, but Christian and his descendants continued the domaine side of the estate. In 2002, Christian Moreau and his son Fabien established Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, focusing entirely on estate-grown wines. Today, the domaine farms about 12 hectares, including holdings in Chablis Grand Cru vineyards such as Les Clos, Valmur, Vaudésir, and Blanchot, and is recognized for producing terroir-driven Chablis that balance tradition with modern precision.
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About Winery
The origins of Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard lie in the historic holdings of the Gagnard-Delagrange family, which were passed down to Laurence Gagnard, daughter of Jacques Gagnard. In 1985, Laurence and her husband Richard Fontaine established the domaine, combining family vineyards with Richard’s dedication after his career in the French Air Force. Over the years, the estate grew to encompass 12 hectares of vines, primarily in Chassagne-Montrachet, with additional parcels in Volnay and Pommard. The domaine is celebrated for its exceptional range of premier cru Chassagne-Montrachet vineyards and prestigious holdings in the grand crus Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, and Montrachet itself. Since 2007, their daughter Céline Fontaine has taken over winemaking, bringing a refined, intuitive style that emphasizes terroir expression, balance, and age-worthy complexity. Today, Fontaine-Gagnard is regarded as one of the finest estates in Chassagne-Montrachet, producing wines of purity, depth, and elegance.
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About Winery
The Moreau family’s winemaking tradition in Chablis dates back to 1814, when Jean-Joseph Moreau, originally a barrel maker in Montbard, founded the wine merchant company J. Moreau et Fils. Over generations, the family acquired prestigious parcels, including the Clos des Hospices in Les Clos (purchased in 1904), which has always been vinified separately. In the 1970s, Christian Moreau returned to Chablis after living in Canada, joining his father Guy in the family business. The merchant side of J. Moreau et Fils was eventually sold to the Canadian group Hiram Walker in 1985, but Christian and his descendants continued the domaine side of the estate. In 2002, Christian Moreau and his son Fabien established Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, focusing entirely on estate-grown wines. Today, the domaine farms about 12 hectares, including holdings in Chablis Grand Cru vineyards such as Les Clos, Valmur, Vaudésir, and Blanchot, and is recognized for producing terroir-driven Chablis that balance tradition with modern precision.
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About Winery
The Moreau family’s winemaking tradition in Chablis dates back to 1814, when Jean-Joseph Moreau, originally a barrel maker in Montbard, founded the wine merchant company J. Moreau et Fils. Over generations, the family acquired prestigious parcels, including the Clos des Hospices in Les Clos (purchased in 1904), which has always been vinified separately. In the 1970s, Christian Moreau returned to Chablis after living in Canada, joining his father Guy in the family business. The merchant side of J. Moreau et Fils was eventually sold to the Canadian group Hiram Walker in 1985, but Christian and his descendants continued the domaine side of the estate. In 2002, Christian Moreau and his son Fabien established Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils, focusing entirely on estate-grown wines. Today, the domaine farms about 12 hectares, including holdings in Chablis Grand Cru vineyards such as Les Clos, Valmur, Vaudésir, and Blanchot, and is recognized for producing terroir-driven Chablis that balance tradition with modern precision.
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Winemaker Notes
The wine features an impressive aromatic complexity, combining luscious lime and grapefruit with unusual notes of roasted pumpkin, brown spices, and a musky floral aura. On the palate, it exhibits a satiny texture and "glycerin richness" balanced by the 2007 vintage’s signature powerful acidity,
About Winery
Domaine Roulot, based in Meursault, Burgundy, was founded in the early 20th century (often cited as the 1930s) by Guy Roulot, who established its reputation for high-quality, terroir-driven white wines. Following Guy's death in 1982, actor-turned-winemaker Jean-Marc Roulot took over in 1989, elevating the 15.5-hectare estate to iconic status through organic farming and a chiseled, mineral-driven style.
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Winemaker Notes
The 2007 Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet is described as a concentrated and well-bred Chardonnay that exemplifies the vintage’s hallmark purity and minerality. According to Maison Jean-Marc Boillot’s traditional vinification methods, the grapes are typically whole-bunch pressed and aged in oak barrels—with approximately 25% to 30% new wood—to produce a wine that is pure, fresh, and expressive of its terroir.
About Winery
Established in 1985 in Pommard by Jean-Marc Boillot, this top-tier Burgundy domaine grew from inherited vineyards from the famed Sauzet and Boillot families. After leaving a winemaker role at Olivier Leflaive, Boillot developed a reputation for rich, high-quality white and red wines. Today, it is run by his children.
